Trekking Trails in Nagaland

There is something about the mystical hills of the North East. This time we got lucky with Nagaland calling to trek its undefiled mountains!
November is probably the best time to trek in Nagaland due to the perfect weather, clear skies and away from the menacing leeches (in monsoon).
We left Kohima at 9.30am towards Viswema village ( Southern Angami) to embark upon our trek to the Dzukou valley. As every event of ones life begins with an omen ( good or bad), ours too began with a roadblock. Fortunately we had covered 2/3rds of the motorable road by then. But that meant our relatively inexperienced legs had to trudge more than the chartered distance. Loading ourselves with camping material, we started our odyssey which we were told  was segmented into 3 parts. We secretly wished our 1st segment to be a warm up, but much to our chagrin, it turned out to be a steep ascend via unevenly laid stones through dense foliage. Our companions Nicholas, James and Jerome doubted our ability to carry on. But the constant egging, mini breaks and soulful singing kept us going till we saw the blue flag indicating our first stop. We soaked into the visuals of the deep valley covered by drifting clouds unmindful of the  gushing cold winds.

We lit a bonfire and grabbed a bite of packed lunch before heading ahead. The second leg of our trek revealed a different landscape with sun soaked hills covered by thick bamboo shrubs overlooking the deep ravines.

The walk was long and curvy but less challenging allowing us to absorb the scenic beauty. We made it to the checkpoint which was manned by members of the youth organization responsible for the upkeep of the valley. They ensured we carried no such material that would disturb the well preserved ecosystem of the valley. It was almost dusk, but we could catch a glimpse of the valley peeping through the manicured hills surrounding it. 5 1/2 hours of relentless trek and the dimming light made us frantically look for a place to pitch our tents into the valley. Our buddies suggested we camp under a cave in the open space . The stars came out and so did the gustling, freezing winds.  Finally having nailed our camp site, we lit our bonfire and kept some water to boil ( fresh from the nearby stream) on our makeshift chullah.  Hot red tea and the bonfire brought us back to life after a footslog of 6 1/2 hours. The bonfire, soft music and folk tales of the Nagas set the stage for a perfect camp night. The starry sky added the much needed glitter, freezing weather notwithstanding! Piping hot chicken curry rice washed down by black tea made us brave the cold. But soon fatigue set in and it was time to call it a day. We sunk into our sleeping bags within the tent. Multiple layers of woolens ( we were forewarned) failed to protect us from the biting cold. We were woken up by our buddies shrieking that the valley was covered with snow!

The roof of our tent had flakes of snow, our bottled water within the tent was frozen; our first instinct was to thank the Almighty for helping us brace the freezing night.  We gingerly moved out of the tent once we were assured of the lit bonfire. The sight of the frosted valley with sun rays lighting the surrounding hills was one to behold! Bright sunshine melted the ice crystals making the valley dazzle also soothing our frozen bodies.

The  pleasure of strolling along the shimmering valley especially after a perilous night was second to none. We then basked under the blazing sun sipping tea in the tranquility.
A sumptuous lunch later it was time to bid adieu to this picturesque valley. We started hiking the mountain slowly drifting away from the pristine landscape.
Our return journey was planned via Zakhama , supposedly short but turned out to be anything but that! The descend down the mountain was quite steep and it was well past dusk that we finally made it to our vehicle.
Having taken it easy the next day nursing our sore limbs, our next adventure was waiting for us at a small, quaint village called Benrue at the foothills of the Mt. Pauna ecosystem.
We planned to trek Mt. Pauna ( 3rd highest mountain in Nagaland) from Benrue. We reached Benrue by late afternoon where a sumptuous meal of pork curry, rice, Naga chilly chutney and boiled veggies awaited us. We were put up at the Govt guest house, a decent accommodation overlooking our destination at a distance.

Our host Enola was a short but energetic lady who not only took care of us but would be our guide as well. We spent a lazy afternoon exploring Benrue and taking pictures of beautiful blossoms! We called it a day early at about 6pm and were all set at dawn to conquer the peak of Mt. Pauna with our companions Enola, Nox and VK . Ushered by crowing roosters, we soon passed civilisation into wilderness of the mountain.
Legend has it that Mt Pauna was carried by Lord Hanuman to cure the ailing Lakshmana. No wonder the air was fragrant with named and unnamed medicinal herbs lining our path. Not just that , it was covered by a bed of diverse flora and vegetation.

The trek was interesting in the sense one had to cross 2 peaks before reaching the foothill of Mt. Pauna. The trek thus undulates resulting into an array of movement on the limbs leaving them less fatigued. Despite it being a mix of rocks and sliding mud, we made it to the peak in 31/2 hours. Perched on the peak is a watch tower offering a panoramic view of the surrounding ranges and villages.

Feeling accomplished we started our journey back to the base camp. On our way we took a detour and passed through some picturesque meadows. Back at Benrue, it was time to say goodbye to Enola. Our drive back to Kohima was reminiscent of our trekking trails in this beautiful State. Any narration on Nagaland would be incomplete without particularly mentioning the  simplicity and exuberant hospitality of the natives which makes it Nostalgic Nagaland!

Backpacking to Sundarbans

April 2015

Day 1: We found ourselves on a Friday morning in a rather queer street called Tottee lane off Sudder street ( nobody had heard of it!). The initial reception with the tour operators did not give us too much confidence, but that initial experience soon faded away as a distant memory. We were packed off in 2 vehicles accommodating 14 backpackers. We drove past the morning chaos of Kolkatta to reach the National Highway in no time after fuelling our Qualis. Om, our guide cum driver made us comfortable by his continuous chatter and good music in the car regardless of the rutted roads. We reached Gosaba where we abandoned our car to board a ferry. Here we got the initial glimpse of the Sundarbans with its calm waters and mangroves.The ferry ride was a bit freaky. It was a small rickety boat with 50 passengers, 2 motorcycles and the travel fare was just Re.1!The hot , humid weather worsened our condition. From the dinghy to the local motorised cargo rickshaw- don’t know which was more perilous. We clambered on the wooden plank behind the rickshaw with our backpacks and set out on a bone- breaking ride through the uneven roads. The entire landscape of Sundarban countryside was predominantly swampy with settlements in between. Acres and acres of paddy fields made us ignore our weary journey and sore backsides. Another short ferry ride ( pleasantly luxurious) finally dropped us to the eco village. Om had assured us that we could refresh by taking a dip into the cool waters of the pool in the eco village. Little did we know that it would be amidst the company of buffaloes in the swampy ponds! We then realized that Om was never serious about what he said unless proven otherwise. Thus we brushed aside the idea of swimming and headed straight towards the mess hall. We were blessed with some hot, home cooked food which included tarkari, bhaja, macher jhol and rice. We rested for sometime in our cottage named Bonobibi ( goddess). The mud hut with thatched roof  ensured that the scorching sun did not reach our worn out bodies. The refreshing afternoon siesta later, we broke the ice with the rest of the group members over piping hot ginger liquor tea. We then set out exploring lives of the villagers. Embankments around the village attempted to keep wild animals at bay. Walking on the embankment, we could see the stark contrast in the landscape from paddy fields and mud huts on one side to acres of mangroves on the other. We had a visual treat of some exotic birds like the white collared kingfisher, comorand etc. The village folks entertained themselves on each Friday evening by arranging cock fights. We zoomed our lenses to get some rare visuals of it and continued with our village exploration. Walking on the embankments at dusk, the calm waters, vast mangroves till the eyes could see, steamers, retreating birds  with their chirpy clatter was breathtakingly beautiful. After soaking into these visuals, we set out on our evening ferry ride. Our boatman diligently rowed us towards the mangroves. The water was shimmering against the moonlit sky. Lying on the deck watching the clear sky amidst the peace and tranquility of the jungle felt surreal. Much against our wishes, we were taken back to the village with an assurance of returning for the night safari. Some lively folk music and piping hot home made dinner got us rejuvenated for the night safari. While our evening boat ride was serene, the night safari was creepy. The high tide made it possible to row into the mangroves brushing ones shoulder, neck and head into the trees. The utter silence of the night amplified the sounds of insects manifold. It was completely a scene out of a horror movie. Om added to the drama by catching some crabs and letting them loose in the boat. Fortunately we did not encounter any snakes as were told earlier. Just as the eeriness got unbearable, we saw a stunning visual. Fireflies lit up the waters resembling twinkling stars. We headed back to our Bonobibi cottage. Our tired bodies took no time to crash on the beds and fall asleep.

Day 2: Started at 5am. A quick wash followed by ginger liquor tea and we were ready for our safari. Some photo ops and we set out. Our chef boarded on the way and prepared breakfast of delicious aloo subji and crunchy lucchis. We crossed from inhabitation to no mans land. We could figure that out after seeing the fencing around the mangroves to keep the man eater at arm’s length. Good food, Om’s chatter, good company and a breezy boat ride kept us enthused. We witnessed some rare species of birds and various species of mangroves; one in particular was with hanging roots resting on the ground giving a visual of walking trees. The denseness of the forest kept us in awe. Besides that we were treated, albeit infrequently, to spotted deer, monkeys, monitor lizards, a gigantic, sunbathing crocodile even. As evening set in, we wanted to end the safari with one glimpse of the mighty Royal Bengal tiger. Having lost hope of seeing one, our guide took us closer to fresh tiger pug marks. This suggested that the tiger swam just some time back from the forest towards the village. We were told that tigers could swim as much as 7 km across rivers! Well, after little bit of consolation with the tiger pug marks, our tour ended. We off loaded from the ferry and started our return journey soaked in the marshy memories of Sundarbans.

Road trip to Tawang

April 2014:
From mesmerizing Meghalaya to Awesome Arunachal via Assam.

Day 1: Bid goodbye to a rejuvenating experience at Rosaville in Shillong and moved on with butterflies in my stomach for an adventurous drive to Tawang via Bomdila. Our driver cum guide, Runn, reached our resort at the stroke of 6am. We crossed Meghalaya and soon entered Assam. And as luck would have it, it was the Assamese new year...Bihu. We celebrated with an Assamese lunch of fresh water fish curry with rice at Tezpur. The weather and landscape changed from a slight chill in the air to reach freezing point as we cruised from Assam to Arunachal with some fine English music in the background. We crossed steep valleys, drove amidst stunning views of rippling streams hitting against pebblestones. The driver calmly drove past one of the most difficult terrains, the good quality roads contributing to a smooth drive. Reached Bomdila at dusk( 5pm). Eagerly awaiting the next day's trip to Tawang .

Day 2: After a sleepless night filled with deafening thunderstorms and gushing winds, we started our onward journey to Tawang. Before commencing the journey, visited the local gompa and took blessings of Lord Buddha. As the steep ascend started, so did the chill in the air. Our driver hardly made us feel that we were inching towards 13700 feet above sea level ie the Sela pass. The snow capped mountains were initially visible in glimpses, but soon were all over the place almost next to us. The Sela pass was a breathtaking visual as if a blanket of snow was laid on it. After the exhilarating experience at the pass which continued for about 5 km, we reached the Jaswant Ghat memorial. We were welcomed by the Indian Army to some hot samosas and chai and Abhineet bought army shoes from the Army store for a steal. Jaswant Ghat is a 1962 war memorial dedicated to the jawans who laid down their lives.
The Tawang valley made its presence felt by the picturesque settings and the 300 year old Tawang monastery. Cute, little monks scurring away and older monks on bikes....Buddhism was in the air which took us little by surprise considering the 6th Dalai Lama belonged to this place. The hotel which was considered the best in Tawang was a bit of a letdown. But that did not deter us. We set out hiking to the monastery, attended the evening prayer and decided to stop by the Old Market for some local food. Having bought a souvenier, we took some advice from a local shopkeeper who suggested Mon Valley restaurant for its local food at the Nehru Market. Had an awesome meal of piping hot Chicken Thukpa and Chicken Thenthuk each, chatted a bit with the restaurant owner, who assured us that its a safe trip back to the hotel even after sunset. After the satiating experience,as we opened the door, it was pitch dark at 6pm. With no torch or mobile, started on our way back with only Abhineet's intuition. We followed the headlights of passing vehicles till the time all vehicles deserted us and we were at a crossroad. Although Abhineet was sure of where to head, I was totally petrified with the darkness, the barking dogs and the drizzle ( considering last night's deafening thunderstorm). Finally , a local confirmed Abhineet's sense of direction and we reached our hotel by 7pm. We dropped dead in the hotel room at 7.30 pm till sunrise at 4.30 am.

Day3: Tawang was projected as a OMG never before seen place by Abhineet, but honestly nothing much apart from a monastery and a below average hotel till the previous day. We looked at the local site seeing maps at the hotel reception since we had no access to internet. Looking at the pictures, Abhineet assured me that Tawang was indeed a cold desert. Without much expectation, I started towards the pTso lake at 6am sharp. Morning was cold which started getting colder with the steep ascend. Within 40 minutes, the mighty Himalayan range was standing right in front of us! I was awestruck by the absolutely stunning scenes as if on a postcard, came across small lakes amidst snow drapped mountains,guarded against all evils by the fluttering, coloured flags. And suddenly the steep, slushy ,icy slopes were just too much for our Scorpio to endure. Runn's unusual driving skills could not salvage the situation and the vehicle refused to ascend any further. Abhineet got off to assess the situation. Me alone, petrified as always in difficult situations, with the driver in the tired vehicle. The wheels started skidding against the ice and I got a feeling of floating on the ground. All sorts of scary pictures started coming up. Most prominant thought was that of the intense pain I would have on hurting myself after the fall! But Runn took the decision to park the vehicle and adviced us to make the remaining journey on foot. Determined Abhineet and I set out to see the pTso lake on foot in sub zero temperature with 6 inches snow cover clearly under dressed. The breathtaking visuals probably made our determination stronger and I soon ignored my numbing feet in my snickers ( Remember Abhineet had the army shoes). I started playing with snowballs childishly, saw few other vehicles getting stuck in the snow while the army jeeps were making their way smoothly. An explanation was given looking at my sad face that the army vehicles had 4 wheel control as opposed to 2 wheel control in regular vehicles. I soon started feeling the numbness in my feet and unwillingly decided to head back to the parked Scorpio. Abhineet, with his army shoes, decided to go a little ahead to take better pictures and then come back. While moving towards the Scorpio, there were few tourists making an effort to hike towards the pTso lake. Noticing the same shoes as mine, I adviced them as if I knew it all that their shoes were not appropriate for the snow and they would soon have numb feet. As I was soaking in the visuals,a fleet of army vehicles stopped by. After seeing the stopped vehicle, an army man got chatting and I praised him as to how we civilians were in awe of how they managed in such difficult conditions( I was a little hopeful of getting a lift to the pTso lake). But I stopped being greedy and felt fortunate to have atleast reached till there as was reminded to me by the army man. I saw the tourists coming back without making it to the lake but did not see Abhineet. Got a little worried looking at the decreasing visibility which doubled after Runn told me that he had gone ahead. Just as I was getting more impatient, I saw my man appear through the mist with a triumphant look. As expected he told me that he saw the lake and proudly showed us the pictures. We started our return journey in a contemplative mood till we reached Dirang. We were lodged at Hotel Pemaling and were quite excited by the view from our window. The hotel was superb considering the not so good experiences the previous 2 nights.

Day 4: This was perhaps our last day in the hills but the romance with the hills was far from over. After a restful sleep at our resort, we decided to go for a short hike after breakfast. However, because of a little miscommunication we had to go in for a longer hike, but it was fun. We then started our trip back to the plains riding along the Tawang river taking memories and all the romance with it. We reached Bhalukpong earlier than expected and spent a relaxing evening by the river.

Day 5: Return journey as on all days started at 6am. From the hills of Arunachal, we were soon in the plains of Assam. The countryside of the Northeast is indeed a treat to one's eye. We crossed the mighty Brahmaputra where one could see fishermen venturing for the catch of the day. After a filling breakfast of puri sabji at a local dhaba ( small pleasures of a road trip), we set out towards Guwahati airport with the greatest souvenier...sweet memories!!