French Gastronomy and the Riviera (September 2018)

Making an itinery for a French holiday can be a bit overwhelming with so many things France has to offer…..fashion, art, food.....and the French do it in style! 

We zeroed down on Lyon and the Cote d’ Azur.

Lyon has earned its title as the gastronomic capital not without reason. We made the College hotel ( conceptualised to resemble a hostel, it is luxurious with all amenities complete with a foosball table unlike a typical hostel as one would picturise) our base. Walking along the narrow alleys of Lyon, numerous restaurants make their presence several of them Michelin starred. We had a reservation at the Au 14 Fevrier ( translated ‘ on 14 February’). A nine course meal serving Modern ( Japanese twist) French cuisine with chef Tsuyoshi Arai paying attention to every detail ensured we began our culinary journey in Lyon on the right note.

 Next we set out to explore the Wine growing Northern Rhone region. Acres and acres of vineyards ready for harvest on a crisp day with knowledgeable guide Vincent Pontiet made it perfect. We visited the processing factory, tasted some elegant Viognier for the whites & Syrah for the reds differentiating the full bodied from the mellow! 

The bylanes of Lyon are reminiscent of a quintessential European chic neighbourhood lined by restaurants much like the streets of Trastevere in Rome. Gastronomy apart, Lyon offers a fine blend of the old world charm and modern architecture developed alongside the rivers Rhone and Saone. Basilica of Notre Dame de Fourviere is perched on the hilly district of Fourviere which also has the metallic tower of Fourviere, its dazzling lights offer a visual treat in the evening as one strolls along the several pedestrian bridges on the river Saone.

 Other landmarks include the Bartholdi Fountain (Bartholdi famous for building the Statue of Liberty).

An ode to Lyon is incomplete without the mention of the traditional family run Lyonese Bouchons. We were recommended the Le Bouchon des Filles in a quaint cobbled stoned street and the ambience and the food was just outstanding.

Bidding adieu to Lyon we headed down south to the Southeastern Mediterranean coastline, the famed French Riviera with Nice as our base. A leisurely walk along the Promenade de Anglais (a beautiful collage of the nicoise history tells us all about it) is a must….casinos, restaurants, art galleries, people pursuing their fitness goals on one side and the lazy , serene sea on the other inviting everyone to experience its vast pebbled beaches!!

Next day we headed to Antibes. On a sunny day, a short train journey lead us to the place where Picasso spent a few precious days of his life and carved and painted some of his masterpieces.

Numerous other art galleries line the harbour making it more picturesque.

Having treated ourselves to some art exhibits, we gobbled down some fresh seafood lining a charming alley watching at leisure the day pass by!!

We then headed to Cannes. While Antibes has maintained its character of a fishing village, Cannes is a’ la mode. The famous red carpet stairs of Palais des Festivals et des Congres lured us for a photo op to feel glorified in our momentary stardom. High street fashion boutiques line the Cannes city centre. 

Having walked till we dropped, we called it a day.

Next morning Alice and her boat were waiting to indulge us in the Mediterranean sea.

Again a crisp morning, charming Alice took us on a dolphin safari. As we went deeper leaving the Nice coastline behind us, the ripples and the heady fragrance of sea water completely consumed us. Wine, sweets, olives and savouries added to the luxurious feel. As we ventured deeper, the dolphins kept us company with their excitement matching ours!!

Evening comprised of a meal at the place Massena savouring the famed escargots.

Next day we visited Villefranche-sur-mer. Initial dampening of our spirits due to the unusual public transport strike meant we could not see the beautiful Eze village. However, we chanced upon a virgin beach, allowing us moments of quiet, soaking our feet with seagulls keeping us company. A dip into the Mediterranean is something one must never miss. A quick lunch of anchovies with caramelised onions pizza, we romanced the riveira in the beautiful evening. Evening meal was Nicoise street specialty…. socca, salad and some wine sitting on the benches of the Lou Pilha Leva watching the city life pass by. As the shops closed their shutters for the day, we closed our eyes revelling the French experience having touched all our senses in the right measure.

Au revoir and merci France for such delightful memories!!!